The shelf · Six things

My skincare.

Six products, ranked by what they actually do — not by what they cost.

Most routines fail because everything in them is treated as equally important. It isn't. One product does more than the other five combined, and it is the boring one. So this page is ordered the way it deserves to be ordered: the thing that matters most, first, and the rest in descending order of how much I'd miss it. If you read one line and close the tab, read the next one.

Sunscreen is the whole routine. Everything else is an improvement on top of it.

Ranked, honestly

If I had to drop one a week until only one was left, this is the order they'd go in — from last to leave, to first out.

  1. Sunscreen — every morning, no exceptionsThe only product here with decades of evidence behind it for preventing photoaging and skin cancer. It is also the one that makes tretinoin safe to use at all. Nothing else on this list buys you as much.
  2. Moisturiser — the second I'd keepUnglamorous and load-bearing. A skin barrier that isn't dry tolerates retinoids, holds onto water, and stops the flaking that makes people quit tretinoin in week three.
  3. Tretinoin 0.1% — the one that actually changes thingsThe only item that rebuilds rather than maintains. It's also the only one with rules, so it gets its own section below. Prescription only.
  4. Hyaluronic acid — cheap leverage, if used rightWorth it on damp skin, sealed immediately. Worth nothing on dry skin in dry air, where it can pull water the wrong way.
  5. Toner — a hydration step, not an astringentThe 1990s stripping kind has no place near tretinoin. A plain hydrating toner is a fine way to leave the face damp for the next step.
  6. Face wash — foam and oilLast, because over-washing causes more problems than under-washing. Oil-based at night to take off sunscreen, foam to follow. Water alone in the morning is defensible.

The best routine is the one you still do in February.

Order of operations

The morning.

Four steps, thinnest to thickest. Three minutes. The only non-negotiable is the last one.

  1. Rinse, or a short foam washNothing happened to your face overnight except your own pillow. Water is enough most mornings. If you wake up oily, a brief foam cleanse and move on — no scrubbing, no hot water.
  2. Toner, on a damp faceStraight from the hands, not a cotton pad — pads waste most of it and drag on skin that's mid-retinisation. The point is to leave the surface wet for what comes next.
  3. Hyaluronic acid, while still dampThis is the whole trick. HA is a humectant: it moves water toward wherever there's more of it. On damp skin it pulls that water in. On bone-dry skin in dry air it can pull from deeper down and leave you tighter than before. Apply within seconds of the toner, then seal it.
  4. MoisturiserThe seal. Without it the previous step slowly evaporates and takes some of your own water with it.
  5. Sunscreen — SPF 50, and actually enough of itRoughly a quarter teaspoon for the face alone, which is far more than instinct says. The two-finger rule works: two full strips squeezed along your index and middle fingers. Most people apply a third of what the SPF on the bottle was tested at, and get a third of the protection. Reapply if you'll be outside for hours.

If you are running late, skip steps one through four. Do not skip five. A day with only sunscreen is a good day; a day with everything but sunscreen is a wasted one — especially on tretinoin.

Order of operations

The night.

The double cleanse earns its place here for one reason: modern sunscreen is water-resistant by design, and a foam cleanser alone does not fully remove it.

  1. Oil cleanser, on dry hands and a dry faceWater first is the common mistake — it stops the oil binding to the sunscreen and makeup you're trying to lift. Massage for a minute, then add water to emulsify it to a milk, then rinse.
  2. Foam cleanserTakes off the oil cleanser and anything left under it. Lukewarm. Thirty seconds is plenty.
  3. Dry completely — and waitThe most-skipped step on this page. Tretinoin applied to damp skin penetrates faster and irritates far more. Pat dry, then leave it ten to twenty minutes. Brush your teeth. This single pause is the difference between tolerating 0.1% and giving up on it.
  4. Tretinoin 0.1% — a pea, for the entire faceOne pea-sized amount total. Dot it on forehead, both cheeks, chin, then spread thin. Avoid the corners of the nose, the eyelids, and the corners of the mouth, which are where irritation starts. More does not work faster; it only makes you peel.
  5. Hyaluronic acid, then moisturiserStraight on top on a good night. On a raw night, reverse it — moisturiser before the tretinoin as a buffer. That blunts the irritation and barely blunts the result.

Toner is optional at night. If the skin feels tight after the double cleanse, use it; if not, get to the moisturiser.

The one with rules

Tretinoin 0.1%.

0.1% is the top of the common range — most people are started at 0.025% or 0.05%. It is prescription-only in the US, and it is the reason sunscreen sits at number one on this page rather than number six.

  1. Start at two nights a week, not seven. Build up only when a week passes without flaking. Getting to nightly over three months beats getting there in three weeks and quitting.
  2. The first six weeks look worse. Retinisation — dryness, flaking, a purge of things that were already forming under the surface. It is not an allergy and it is not the product failing. It is also not a reason to exfoliate, which is the instinct and the trap.
  3. Sunscreen becomes mandatory, not advisable. Tretinoin thins the stratum corneum while it works and leaves you measurably more sun-sensitive. Using it without daily SPF is running the engine with the oil light on.
  4. One active at a time. No glycolic or salicylic acid on tretinoin nights, no scrubs, no benzoyl peroxide in the same layer. If you want acids, give them their own night — or skip them entirely, because tretinoin already does that job.
  5. Buffer when you need to. Moisturiser before tretinoin, or mixed into the same layer, reduces irritation substantially and reduces efficacy only slightly. A buffered night you actually do beats a pure night you skip.
  6. Give it six months before judging it. Texture and tone move at around twelve weeks. Fine lines take longer. Nothing about this product rewards impatience.
  7. Not during pregnancy, or when trying. Topical retinoids are contraindicated. This one is not a judgement call to make alone — ask the person who prescribed it.
Tretinoin is the only thing here that builds. Sunscreen is the only thing that protects what it built.
The shelf

What's actually on it.

Nothing here is expensive, and none of it is essential in the specific — a cheaper equivalent in the same category does the same job. The category matters; the brand mostly doesn't. Links below are affiliate links.

SunscreenThe one that matters

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun SPF50+ PA++++. A light, non-chalky finish, which is the only reason anyone applies enough of it. If a sunscreen feels bad you will under-apply it, and an under-applied SPF 50 performs like an SPF 15.

Alternate: La Roche-Posay Anthelios UV Clear SPF 46 if you're acne-prone.

MoisturiserThe load-bearing one

CeraVe Moisturizing Cream. Ceramides and a tub that lasts months. This is the product that makes 0.1% tretinoin survivable, and the one I'd replace last.

Alternate: Vanicream Moisturizing Cream — same job, shorter ingredient list, no fragrance.

Hyaluronic acidCheap leverage

The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5. A few pounds, lasts forever, and does exactly one thing. Damp skin, then seal — otherwise don't bother with it at all.

TonerHydrating, not stripping

Klairs Supple Preparation Unscented Toner. No alcohol, no fragrance, no witch hazel. Its only job is leaving the face damp for the hyaluronic acid. Anything marketed as "clarifying" or "pore-tightening" is the wrong category for skin on a retinoid.

Face wash — oilFirst at night

DHC Deep Cleansing Oil. Dry hands, dry face, one minute, then emulsify with water. This is what actually removes a water-resistant sunscreen. Skipping it is why people who "wash their face properly" still get congestion.

Face wash — foamSecond at night

CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser. Takes off the oil cleanser without stripping. Lukewarm water, thirty seconds. If your face feels squeaky afterwards, the cleanser is too harsh — squeaky is damage, not clean.

Tretinoin 0.1%Prescription only

No link, because there shouldn't be one. Tretinoin is prescription-only in the US and anywhere selling it to you without one is selling you something you can't verify. Get it from a dermatologist, a GP, or a legitimate telehealth service that actually prescribes.

If 0.1% is more than your face wants, 0.025% and 0.05% exist and are not a lesser version of the project.

What I got wrong first

The mistakes, so you can skip them.

  • Applying a quarter of the sunscreen the label was tested with, and believing the number on the bottle.
  • Going to nightly tretinoin in week two, peeling badly, and stopping for a year.
  • Hyaluronic acid on a bone-dry face in winter, then wondering why it felt tighter.
  • An astringent toner on retinised skin, which is a way of paying money to undo the other product.
  • Adding an exfoliant to fix the flaking that the exfoliant was making worse.
  • Buying a seventh product instead of doing the six consistently for three months.
  • Treating the routine as the point. The point is twenty years from now.

Consistency beats potency. It isn't close.

Honest notes

Affiliate disclosure. Some links on this page are affiliate links, which means Forma may earn a small commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you. It does not change what's on the list — the shelf was the shelf before there were links on it, and the two cheapest items on it are the two I'd keep longest.

Not medical advice. This is one person's routine written down, not a treatment plan. Tretinoin 0.1% is a prescription medicine with real contraindications — pregnancy among them — and skin conditions that look cosmetic sometimes aren't. If something on your face is changing, bleeding, or not healing, that is a dermatologist's question, not a website's.

Tools for this

Small apps built for small steps. Each keeps your data on your phone.

AscensionA plan for the frame and the face

Skin, sleep, training and the rest of it — tracked as a plan rather than a pile of products.

In shape, without announcing it · All paths